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Plenty of people do make various other methods work but this way has been proven by local and a few online show breeders I’ve talked to for many guinea pig generations. Also another reason why I want to stop pellets is because, one of my piggies is a lil too chucky at 3lb. In order to get enough vitamins and minerals, domesticated guinea pigs should be fed easy-to-digest fruits and vegetables in strict quantities. Not bad, and I looked at the ingredients, protein, fat, fiber, and Vit C content and it looks good! If you don’t have access to fresh grass don’t underestimate the hay. Some piggies are susceptible to them and all the diet in the world won’t stop these things from happening. Excess calcium could contribute to the formation of bladder stones in older guinea pigs. Take mine only as a different way of caring of guinea pigs. Guinea pigs require grass hay. Do as you are doing in trying to limit the calcium. High quality grass hay should be available for each guinea pig at all times.
Nowadays, almost every domesticated guinea pig is fed pellets, partly because of accessibility, but mostly thanks to advertising. But how much of that is true? In nature, wild guinea pigs who have the same digestive system as domesticated piggies would ideally eat grasses, herbs, twigs, leaves, and bark. So, are pellets the necessary alternative? Do guinea pigs need pellets? The truth is that guinea pigs will not die without pellets. Most pellets are alfalfa or timothy hay-based and mixed with multiple ingredients and supplements. Piggies over 12 months should be fed with Timothy pellets. Certain types of pellets absorb water in the stomach and cause swelling, preventing liquids from reaching the bladder and kidneys and therefore opening the door to complications. These sorts of pellets should only be syringe-fed in small amounts.